October 19, 2025
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I spent a rainy weekend in coastal town with famous ice cream shop | UK | Travel


Nicola on street in Largs

Largs on the west coast of Scotland is the perfect seaside town, in my opinion (Image: Nicola Roy)

Autumn is in full swing here in the UK, but that doesn’t mean we should surrender to the winter blues. The nights are getting darker already, but each year, I make a point of trying to make the most of the daylight whilst still enjoying the cosiness.

This includes getting out and discovering more of the gorgeous spots the UK boasts, and not allowing the dreary weather to put me off. There’s one particular place I’ve visited loads since childhood that is bustling in summer, yet somewhat overlooked in winter. After spending a rain-soaked weekend there last month, I can vouch for its charm being just as strong — if not more so.

Largs seafront with ferry

Don’t let the gloomy weather put you off visiting Largs this month (Image: Nicola Roy)

Largs, a quaint coastal town in western Scotland, approximately an hour from Glasgow, is this place. Renowned for its Viking museum, nostalgic amusement arcades and ferry trips to the Isle of Cumbrae, it’s a destination many Scots will have likely visited during the warm summer months.

My family has been huge fans of Largs for many years, which meant that as soon as the weather forecast looked good, we would pile into the car for a visit when my brother and I were children. 

It’s one of those places that I had such cherished memories of that I was convinced it couldn’t possibly be as good as I remembered — especially not when the clouds gathered and the air turned crisp.

But I couldn’t have been more mistaken. Last month, on a family trip, we enjoyed some rainy beach walks, indulged in some amazing food, and even spotted a few Vikings — all without a hint of sunshine.

Donut van in Largs

Largs has everything you’d want from a seaside town, including freshly made donuts (Image: Nicola Roy)

This charming town, nestled by the Firth of Clyde, offers everything you could want from a seaside resort, including an array of lovely hotels and places to eat.

We stayed at the Old Rectory, a stunning holiday home that accommodates up to 14 guests, complete with a hot tub and plenty of space for relaxation.

The beauty of Largs is how close it is to the waterfront, regardless of where you’re staying. Along the Victorian-style promenade, there’s an array of sights to see and activities to take part in, not to mention the fantastic food and drink offerings, ranging from traditional fish and chips to mouth-watering Thai cuisine.

Largs is renowned for being the battleground of a historic conflict in 1263, which signalled the end of significant Viking influence in Scotland.

You can delve into this history at the Vikingar museum, or immerse yourself in the action at the annual Largs Viking Festival.

Coincidentally, the festival was taking place during our visit, featuring battle re-enactments, live music, and some intriguing costumes.

Nardini's

You can’t go to Largs without visiting Nardini’s for an ice cream (Image: Nicola Roy)

Beyond the Vikings, another of Largs’ claims to fame is its art deco-style ice cream parlour, which has been attracting visitors for years.

Nardini’s, affectionately hailed as Scotland’s most famous cafe, is a crowd favourite for its inviting and warm interior, not to mention the irresistible ice cream.

Like Vikingar, it boasts a prime waterfront location, making it ideal for savouring a scoop or two of your favourite flavour.

The cafe also offers a vast selection of cakes and light bites, perfect for lunch or a quick snack during your beachfront strolls.

Japanese matcha sign

Largs might have a retro vibe, but its eateries are definitely keeping up to date with foodie trends (Image: Nicola Roy)

Venture into the town centre and you’ll discover quaint winding streets brimming with independent gift shops, eateries and more ice cream parlours.

One morning, we opted for brunch at Perk, a vibrant cafe full of plants and books with an impressive menu.

The vanilla matcha was delicious, and I couldn’t resist ordering the indulgent feta and avocado waffles from the menu.

And if you’re still peckish after your meal, there’s a cake cabinet bursting with pastries and other treats available for takeaway.

Largs market hall

Be sure to pay the Largs market hall a visit (Image: Nicola Roy)

While Largs may lack high-street giants, it more than makes up for it with a wide range of independent sellers showcasing their unique products.

There’s a large market tent lined with retailers offering everything from organic dog food to wooden lamps, jewellery, soaps, and even tarot reading—I could have easily spent the entire day exploring.

For those seeking a bit more adventure, a short ferry ride from the port will take you to the Isle of Cumbrae, home to the bustling town of Millport.

The island is small enough to cycle around in just a few hours, with a pint waiting at the end before a swift 10-minute sail back to the mainland.

Nearby, you’ll find the stunning Kelburn Castle, a beautiful park and estate that hosts its own music festival during the summer months. It’s an ideal spot for families, boasting numerous playparks, waterfalls and much more to discover — all less than 10 minutes away from Largs.

But truthfully, Largs itself offers more than enough to keep visitors entertained for a day or even a weekend. Don’t let the typical Scottish drizzle deter you — it only enhances the invigorating seafront walks and makes the ice-cream parlours feel even cosier.

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